Food and fashion, an unconventional pair, are breaking longstanding norms as luxury embraces consumer consumption. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) explores this intricate connection in its exhibition “Food & Fashion” in New York City and a corresponding book.
Over the past decade, food-inspired fashion collections have taken center stage on runways worldwide. In 2014, Karl Lagerfeld turned heads with a Chanel-branded supermarket show, while Moschino, under Jeremy Scott, playfully incorporated iconic pop culture food brands. The trend extends beyond runways, with fashion giants like Prada, Gucci, and Ralph Lauren entering the culinary scene by opening cafes and restaurants.
Fashion designers, including Phillip Lim and Peter Som, are publishing cookbooks and contributing to food magazines. Social media platforms showcase the culinary creations of designers like Jason Wu and Laura Kim, co-creative director at Oscar de la Renta. This convergence of food and fashion challenges traditional perceptions, highlighting the commonality between the craftsmanship, artistry, and sensory experiences in both realms.
The relationship between designers and chefs is not a recent phenomenon. Christian Dior, a revered couture house, released a cookbook half a century ago, celebrating its founder’s passion for rich French cuisine. French cultural heritage, expressed through both food and fashion, remains a significant driver of economic activity, exemplified by luxury conglomerate LVMH.
The blending of food and fashion is evident in collaborations between brands like Smeg and Dolce & Gabbana, which produced hand-painted refrigerators embodying Italian craftsmanship. However, such associations can spark controversy, as seen in Dolce & Gabbana’s 2018 video series, prompting discussions around cultural appropriation.
Successful collaborations, when done right, expand the identity and consumer base of both industries. Brands like Puma have partnered with Haribo and White Castle, creating unique and Instagram-worthy sneakers. These collaborations capitalize on exclusivity, aligning with a retail culture that values limited-edition products.
The exhibition at FIT, featuring pieces like a sculptural gown from Comme des Garçons and a Campbell’s Soup “Souper Dress,” explores the intersection of food and fashion. Fast food’s connection with fashion dates back to the 1970s when McDonald’s collaborated with designer Stan Herman on uniforms.
While collaborations may sometimes appear as marketing ploys, their success lies in aligning brand identities and values. Telfar Clemens, designing uniforms for White Castle, sought to break down barriers by blurring distinctions between “high” and “low” culture. The beauty of these collaborations lies in their ability to market themselves, generating interest from media and influencers alike.
Ultimately, the fusion of food and fashion serves as a unique form of expression, creating identity through literal and figurative “tastes.” These realms touch various aspects of life, from cultural identity to environmental issues, labor justice, and body politics, offering a reflection of how individuals and societies express themselves in everyday survival.
